Remove Old Valve and Install New Valve Body — Connect Water Supply Lines
Part of project
How to Rough-In a Shower Valve: A Step-by-Step DIY Guide · Step 3 of 4
In this video
With the water supply shut off, the old three-handle valve and its connected galvanized pipes are cut out and removed from the wall cavity. New PEX tubing is run from the existing hot and cold water supply lines. The new Moen single-handle valve body is securely mounted inside the wall. The PEX supply lines are then connected to the hot and cold inlets on the valve using threaded adapters. A new galvanized pipe is installed for the shower riser, connecting to the top outlet of the valve. For the tub spout, a short piece of copper pipe with a 90-degree elbow is connected to the bottom outlet of the valve. PTFE tape is used on all threaded connections to ensure a leak-proof seal.
Goal: Install new shower valve body
- Ensure the valve is installed squarely and securely. An improperly mounted valve can lead to trim kit installation issues and potential leaks.
- Connect the hot supply to the left inlet and the cold supply to the right inlet of the valve, which is the standard configuration.
Used in this video
- Reciprocating Saw — Cutting out old galvanized pipes.
- Pipe Wrench — Gripping and turning pipes and fittings.
- PEX Tool — Creating secure connections with PEX tubing (e.g., crimping or expanding).
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FAQs
How difficult is roughing-in a shower valve for a beginner, and what's the typical time commitment?
While rated "beginner," this project requires careful attention to detail, especially with water connections and leak prevention. For a beginner, expect it to take a full afternoon or even a day, accounting for preparation, learning, and thorough leak testing. Rushing can lead to costly mistakes.
What are the most important safety precautions to take during this plumbing project, especially regarding water and tools like a torch?
Always shut off the main water supply to the house before starting to prevent flooding and water damage. When using a Bernzomatic Pen Torch for soldering, ensure you have proper ventilation, a fire extinguisher nearby, and wear appropriate safety glasses and gloves to prevent burns. Always double-check electrical safety if working near any electrical outlets.
How do I ensure the shower valve is installed at the correct height and depth for comfortable use and the finished wall?
Always follow the shower valve manufacturer's instructions for rough-in dimensions, especially for the recommended height of the valve. Use a level to ensure the blocking and valve are perfectly plumb and level. Remember to account for the thickness of your finished wall material (e.g., tile and backer board) when setting the valve depth to ensure the trim fits flush and the handle isn't too recessed or protruding.
What steps should I take immediately if I discover a leak during the final water pressure test?
If you find a leak, immediately turn off the main water supply to the house again. Identify the exact source of the leak; it's often a poorly soldered joint or a loose threaded fitting. If it's a solder joint, drain the pipes, thoroughly clean and flux the area, and re-solder. If it's a fitting, tighten it appropriately, being careful not to overtighten.
TranscriptHide
Auto-generated transcript. May contain errors.
Remove Old Valve and Install New Valve Body — Connect Water Supply Lines
Part of project
How to Rough-In a Shower Valve: A Step-by-Step DIY Guide · Step 3 of 4
In this video
With the water supply shut off, the old three-handle valve and its connected galvanized pipes are cut out and removed from the wall cavity. New PEX tubing is run from the existing hot and cold water supply lines. The new Moen single-handle valve body is securely mounted inside the wall. The PEX supply lines are then connected to the hot and cold inlets on the valve using threaded adapters. A new galvanized pipe is installed for the shower riser, connecting to the top outlet of the valve. For the tub spout, a short piece of copper pipe with a 90-degree elbow is connected to the bottom outlet of the valve. PTFE tape is used on all threaded connections to ensure a leak-proof seal.
Goal: Install new shower valve body
- Ensure the valve is installed squarely and securely. An improperly mounted valve can lead to trim kit installation issues and potential leaks.
- Connect the hot supply to the left inlet and the cold supply to the right inlet of the valve, which is the standard configuration.
Used in this video
- Reciprocating Saw — Cutting out old galvanized pipes.
- Pipe Wrench — Gripping and turning pipes and fittings.
- PEX Tool — Creating secure connections with PEX tubing (e.g., crimping or expanding).
Frequently Asked Questions
How difficult is roughing-in a shower valve for a beginner, and what's the typical time commitment?
While rated "beginner," this project requires careful attention to detail, especially with water connections and leak prevention. For a beginner, expect it to take a full afternoon or even a day, accounting for preparation, learning, and thorough leak testing. Rushing can lead to costly mistakes.
What are the most important safety precautions to take during this plumbing project, especially regarding water and tools like a torch?
Always shut off the main water supply to the house before starting to prevent flooding and water damage. When using a Bernzomatic Pen Torch for soldering, ensure you have proper ventilation, a fire extinguisher nearby, and wear appropriate safety glasses and gloves to prevent burns. Always double-check electrical safety if working near any electrical outlets.
How do I ensure the shower valve is installed at the correct height and depth for comfortable use and the finished wall?
Always follow the shower valve manufacturer's instructions for rough-in dimensions, especially for the recommended height of the valve. Use a level to ensure the blocking and valve are perfectly plumb and level. Remember to account for the thickness of your finished wall material (e.g., tile and backer board) when setting the valve depth to ensure the trim fits flush and the handle isn't too recessed or protruding.
What steps should I take immediately if I discover a leak during the final water pressure test?
If you find a leak, immediately turn off the main water supply to the house again. Identify the exact source of the leak; it's often a poorly soldered joint or a loose threaded fitting. If it's a solder joint, drain the pipes, thoroughly clean and flux the area, and re-solder. If it's a fitting, tighten it appropriately, being careful not to overtighten.
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