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Assemble and Connect P-Trap — Assemble and Dry-Fit the P-Trap

Beginner4 hours

Part of project

How to Install a Bathroom Sink Drain and P-Trap · Step 5 of 7

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In this video

Assemble the P-trap by placing a slip nut and washer on the vertical opening of the end outlet tee and attaching the J-bend. Connect the wall tube to the other side of the J-bend using a slip nut. If the wall tube doesn't align with the wall drain, you may need to create a custom fitting using PVC pipe, elbows, and adapters, glued together with PVC primer and cement. Insert the wall tube into the wall drain and connect it to the J-bend.

Goal: Complete P-Trap Installation

  • The beveled end of the wall tube acts as its own washer when connecting to the J-bend, so an additional poly washer is not needed there.
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FAQs

Is 4 hours a realistic time estimate for a beginner, or should I allocate more time for this project?

The 4-hour estimate is a good average for someone with basic DIY skills. However, beginners should budget an extra 1-2 hours, especially for dealing with corroded old components or unexpected issues. Rushing the leak test is a common mistake, so take your time and don't feel pressured by the estimate.

What's the most common mistake beginners make that leads to leaks, and how can I prevent it?

The most common mistake is improper sealing or overtightening/undertightening connections. Ensure you apply plumber's putty correctly around the drain flange and hand-tighten all plastic connections. For metal components, hand-tighten and then only a quarter turn more with pliers to avoid stripping threads or cracking pipes.

The guide mentions plumber's putty for the drain flange; can I use silicone sealant instead for a better seal?

While silicone sealant can be used for the drain flange, plumber's putty is often preferred for its ease of use, pliability, and easy removal if adjustments are needed. If you choose silicone, use a kitchen/bath-grade product and allow adequate curing time before running water to test for leaks, as it's harder to adjust once set.

Beyond the listed tools, are there any other essential items or safety gear I should have on hand for this plumbing project?

Yes, always have a bucket or old towels ready to catch residual water during old drain removal. Safety glasses are recommended, especially when cutting pipes or dealing with potential splashes. Gloves can also protect your hands from grime and chemicals, making the job more comfortable and clean.

Transcript
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To continue, we need another slip nut and poly washer and we need a J band. One side of the J band is taller than the other side. This side goes over the end outlet T, insert the J band all the way onto the outlet, then we have a wall tube. The wall tube needs only a slip nut. You do not need a poly washer here, that's because the end of a wall tube is barefoot and direct as a washer. Now to connect the drain line to the wall drain, I need more fittings. This last connection will vary for everybody and it depends on their plumbing layout. I take a female adapter, a 45 degree elbow, a small piece of inch and a half PVC, and a female connector. I use only purple primer and cement to glue all of this together. I apply a little more guzolet threaded sealant onto the threads and tie it down the fitting I just made. Now I remove the wall tube from the J band and I insert the last slip nut and poly washer. I insert the wall tube back onto the wall drain and align up the J band with the wall tube. Keep in mind that this is the most critical connection of the whole drain. The wall tube needs to sit perfectly onto the J band, then you tie now the slip nut. Then what you have left here is tighten down the slip nut onto the wall tube and also the one onto the J band. At this point, I also recommend you go back and check all the slip nuts, make sure they are hand tight.

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