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True Value
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Install Wood Blocking — Plan and Mark Location

Beginner8 hours

Part of project

How to Install a Waterproof Foam Shower Niche · Step 1 of 6

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In this video

First, decide on the height for your shower valve. A common height is between 45 and 48 inches from the finished floor. Mark this height on the wall studs. Cut a piece of wood, such as a 2x8, to serve as blocking. Position this block between the studs at your marked height. The key to setting the depth correctly is to push the block all the way back until it is flush against the drywall on the other side of the wall. Secure the blocking to the studs using screws.

Goal: Secure a wood block between the studs to mount the shower valve

  • The height of the shower valve is a matter of personal preference; there's no strict code for a shower-only installation.

Used in this video

  • Tape Measure (brand: Milwaukee, Tool Type: Measuring Tools) — Measuring the height for the blocking.
  • Pencil (brand: Unknown, Tool Type: Hand Tools) — Marking the height on the studs.
  • Drill (brand: Milwaukee, Tool Type: Power Tools, Power Source: Battery) — Driving screws to secure the blocking.
  • 2x8 Lumber (brand: Unknown, Material: Wood) — Creating the mounting block for the valve.
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FAQs

The project is listed as 'beginner' difficulty, but 8 hours seems like a long time. What makes this project take so long, and is it truly suitable for a first-timer?

While the individual steps are straightforward, the 8-hour estimate accounts for careful measuring, precise framing, allowing sealant to cure, and meticulous waterproofing. Rushing these critical steps can lead to leaks, so taking your time to ensure everything is perfect makes it beginner-friendly by emphasizing accuracy over speed.

The required tools list several different drills. Do I need multiple drill/drivers, or will one standard cordless drill suffice for this project?

You only need one capable cordless drill/driver, such as the RYOBI ONE+ 18V Cordless 1/2 in. Drill/Driver, to complete this project. The multiple listings provide options for suitable tools. Ensure your chosen drill has enough power to drive screws into wood studs and backer board efficiently.

What is the most critical step to ensure the shower niche is completely waterproof and won't leak?

The most critical step is the meticulous waterproofing of all seams, especially where the niche meets the backer board. Apply a continuous bead of high-quality waterproof sealant like DAP Ultra Clear, and then properly embed waterproofing banding over all seams and fasteners. This creates a monolithic, leak-proof barrier essential for preventing water damage.

What if my existing wall studs aren't perfectly spaced for the pre-fabricated niche? Do I need to modify the framing?

Yes, you will likely need to modify your wall framing using 2x4 lumber to create a precise, sturdy opening for the niche. This often involves cutting existing studs and installing horizontal blocking to perfectly frame the niche's dimensions, ensuring a flush and stable installation. Accurate framing is crucial for long-term stability and waterproofing.

Transcript
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So inch and eighth is the max but it really doesn't matter because the way this is installed and the variance that you have for tile it's going to be very simple. Take a piece of block you know this is a two by eight you can use a two by six that'd be sufficient I mean your main concern is just being able to screw this into place so this is a regular two by four wall and there's dry wall behind here this is just going to set right up against the back of that wall you're going to set your valve into place and you're going to be at the right depth. This is going to allow you to be able to be within three eighths of an inch of whatever your tile thickness is so looking at this this is really going to give you the variance this plaster guard here is basically the indication of where you want your finish wall to be but you have all this flexibility within this same area you can actually be back a little bit further and be fine. In a lot of ways it's a little bit safer in some ways to be behind the wall rather than too far out the worst thing that can happen is just being too far out of the wall and then your discussion plate won't cover but if you just have a regular two by four wall stick a two by material to the back of the wall that pushes us two inches back from the front of our framing. And if we have inch in and eighth worth of finished wall we're going to be at a correct depth you can actually even be an inch and a half outside of this rough framing and still be okay so this really takes the confusion out of setting the depth of this because in a normal circumstance with regular tile you just do this and you'll be in good shape okay so as far as the height this is really personal preference. You know if you know it really tends to not tell you are to I mean it honestly does not matter where you put that shower valve now when you have a tub spelt there are some requirements of how far from the top of your bottom of your valve to the bottom of where your tub support comes up but since this is a shower it's really whatever you want to do I usually like to have mine around 45 to 48 inches but it truly is up to you and what your tile design might be and what you're going to do so we're just going to set ours like 46 inches I think I think that would be sufficient to be at a decent height to turn it on and off so that's 46 there and I'm just going to use a 2 by 8 blocker this is going to allow me to set that valve very easily at the right distance as long as…

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