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Finalize the System — Disconnect Hoses and Accessories

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How to Winterize an Outdoor Faucet to Prevent Burst Pipes · Step 1 of 5

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After all zones have been blown out, perform the final steps. First, return to the backflow preventer and set the handles on both ball valves to a 45-degree angle. This ensures no water is trapped inside the valve bodies. Next, go back to the basement shutoff valve. Place a bucket under the drain spigot (hose bib) located just after the shutoff valve and open it to drain any remaining water from the pipe leading outside. Leave this drain open for the winter. Finally, if you removed a backflow cartridge, store it indoors. Reinstall the cap on your blowout port.

Goal: Complete the winterization process by draining remaining water and setting valves for winter.

  • If you have an RPZ backflow preventer, keep the internal cartridge indoors during the winter to protect it.
  • Remember to open the drain valve in the basement to release any water trapped between the shutoff valve and the backflow device.

Used in this video

  • Bucket (Bucket Size: 5 gallon)Catching water drained from the hose bib in the basement.
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Roger Wakefield Plumbing Education

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FAQs

How much time should I set aside for winterizing my outdoor faucet, especially as a beginner?

This is a quick and beginner-friendly project, typically taking only 15-30 minutes per faucet. The majority of the time is spent locating and operating the interior shut-off valve and ensuring complete drainage. It's a small investment of time that saves you from potentially costly pipe repairs.

What's the biggest mistake people make, and what are the consequences if I don't winterize correctly?

The most critical mistake is not completely draining all water from the pipe between the indoor shut-off valve and the outdoor faucet. Any residual water can freeze, expand, and burst the pipe, leading to significant water damage inside your home once temperatures rise. Ensure the pipe is completely empty before closing the outdoor faucet.

What if I can't find an interior shut-off valve for my outdoor faucet, or my home is older?

If you don't have an individual interior shut-off valve for the faucet, you'll need to turn off your home's main water supply, open the outdoor faucet to drain it, and then turn the main supply back on. Consider consulting a plumber to install a dedicated shut-off valve for easier future winterization, as this is a common upgrade.

What's the typical cost involved in winterizing an outdoor faucet?

The primary cost is usually for an insulated faucet cover, which typically ranges from $5-$20, like the Everbilt Hard Outdoor Faucet Cover 1981 listed. If you need to purchase a bucket, you might spend an additional $5-$10. Overall, it's a very inexpensive preventative measure compared to the cost of burst pipe repairs.

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Once the winterization process is complete, you want to go back to your backflow preventer, and you want to turn the ball valves both before and after the backflow preventer on a 45 degree angle. Turning that amount of 45 is very important because it allows the water to escape from the ball valve. If it's all the way open or all the way closed, it'll cause water to be trapped behind the wall of the ball valve, so when the temperature gets cold, it'll freeze, expand, and blow out your ball valves, which will make for a very costly repair in the spring. Next, we need to go back to your basement because we need to remove the water that's between the point of connection and your backflow preventer. Look for a hose bin just downstream from that point of connection, get yourself a bucket, and open that valve up, and let the water trickle out until it stops and leave the valve open for the duration of the winter. Also, if your system's wise strainer is located outside, be sure to remove the plug to prevent freeze damage. And the last thing we need to do is thread the cap or plug back on the winterization port. If you have an RPC backflow, then you should keep it indoors during the winter.

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