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Assembling the New Sump Pump and Piping — Disconnect Discharge Pipe

Beginner

Part of project

How to Replace a Pedestal Sump Pump · Step 2 of 7

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In this video

The user lays out the new pump and parts. He uses the old assembly as a template to cut the new PVC pipe to the correct length. He drills a small weep hole in the pipe just above the pump outlet to prevent air lock. He then dry-fits and glues the PVC pipe and fittings, including the new check valve, to the new sump pump.

Goal: Assemble the new pump for installation

  • Dry-fit all your pipes and fittings before applying glue to ensure everything is the correct length and orientation.
  • When installing the new check valve, ensure the flow arrow is pointing in the correct direction, away from the pump.

Used in this video

  • Drill (Tool Type: Drill, Power Source: Cordless) — Drilling a weep hole in the PVC discharge pipe.
  • Drill Bit (Size/Specification: 3/16 inch) — Creating the weep hole.
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FAQs

What are the most critical safety steps I need to take before starting to replace my pedestal sump pump?

Always disconnect power to the sump pump circuit at your home's breaker panel first to prevent electrical shock. Wear work gloves to protect your hands from potential sharp edges or debris in the sump pit, and use a tarp to contain spills around the work area. Ensure the work area is well-lit and you have clear access to the sump pit.

Do I need to buy all the specific tools and materials listed, like the K2 1/2 HP pump and a dedicated PVC pipe cutter?

While the listed items are recommended for quality and ease, equivalent tools and materials can often be substituted. A dedicated PVC pipe cutter like the Hayes PC2-64 makes clean, straight cuts essential for a leak-free seal, which is critical. Upgrading from a 1/3 HP to a 1/2 HP pump can provide increased pumping power for better flood protection.

How important is cleaning the sump pit, and what's the best way to ensure it's ready for the new pump?

Thoroughly cleaning the sump pit is crucial because accumulated silt, gravel, and debris can clog your new pump's intake and shorten its lifespan. After removing the old pump, use a shop vacuum to remove all remaining water and solids from the bottom of the pit. Ensure the pit is as clean as possible before installing the new pump.

What are the most common installation mistakes beginners make with pedestal sump pumps, especially regarding the piping and check valve?

A common mistake is improperly installing the check valve, which should be placed above the pump to prevent water from flowing back into the pit. Another error is not using Teflon tape on threaded connections or failing to make clean, straight cuts on PVC pipe, leading to leaks. Ensure all connections are secure but not overtightened.

Transcript
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the drain field. I got a quick tip for you guys because I've done this before, the painful and difficult way. Look how small this pump is compared to that pump. This is a solar. I think it's how you say it. Much better brand pump. It's a lot smaller physically, but it has actually higher horsepower than that one. Now the gallons per minute is about 60 on this one versus 90. So that may attribute to the size difference, but these are good little pumps. But you see the base on the old one has big legs to keep it up off the ground. This one does not have a really tall base on it, which is fine for our application here. It's just pretty much gray water or whatever you want to call it. But the heights are going to be different. So if you were to want to reuse the plumbing that you had, it's not going to match up because there's at least, I don't know, probably three inches of difference between the inlet there and the inlet on this one. So your pipe up here is going to be three inches shorter. So what I'm going to do is, and that's another reason to re-plum it. I think it's because it's pretty easy. It's not a whole lot of effort is leave this all intact. Put the new pump right next to it, plummet to the to the same height. And then you know when you drop that thing in, it's going to turn just fine at the angle you need it to to go to the drain bed. So I've got it plumbed in. That's what it looks like. So you got a straight run. You got an angle. Check valve here. You check the flow direction of your check valve. Don't put it on backwards guys. I've heard about people doing that before. Fortunately, I have yet to do that. But check the flap. Make sure it works and make sure it's going the right direction.

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