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Finalize the System — Shut Off Water Supply and Drain the Line

Beginner4 hours

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How to Replace an Outdoor Faucet (Spigot/Hose Bibb) · Step 1 of 6

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After all zones have been blown out, perform the final steps. First, return to the backflow preventer and set the handles on both ball valves to a 45-degree angle. This ensures no water is trapped inside the valve bodies. Next, go back to the basement shutoff valve. Place a bucket under the drain spigot (hose bib) located just after the shutoff valve and open it to drain any remaining water from the pipe leading outside. Leave this drain open for the winter. Finally, if you removed a backflow cartridge, store it indoors. Reinstall the cap on your blowout port.

Goal: Complete the winterization process by draining remaining water and setting valves for winter.

  • If you have an RPZ backflow preventer, keep the internal cartridge indoors during the winter to protect it.
  • Remember to open the drain valve in the basement to release any water trapped between the shutoff valve and the backflow device.

Used in this video

  • Bucket (Bucket Size: 5 gallon) — Catching water drained from the hose bib in the basement.
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FAQs

How difficult is replacing an outdoor faucet for a beginner, and how long should I expect it to take?

This project is rated as 'beginner' difficulty, making it suitable for those new to DIY plumbing. With proper preparation and the right tools, it typically takes about 4 hours. Most of the time involves careful disconnection, preparation, and leak testing.

What are the most critical safety precautions I need to take before starting this project?

The most crucial step is to shut off the main water supply to your house and drain the lines before beginning. This prevents accidental flooding. Always wear safety glasses and gloves to protect against debris, tools slipping, or contact with old pipes.

What specific tools and materials are essential for this faucet replacement, especially for a stubborn old unit?

Beyond basic tools, you'll definitely need two sturdy pipe wrenches (like the RIDGID 31305 and TradesPro 830914) to safely remove the old faucet without twisting internal pipes. Penetrating oil (Blaster PB) is critical for seized connections, and Teflon tape along with pipe thread sealant (Hercules Real-Tuff) are essential for leak-free installation.

Why is installing a 'frost-proof' faucet recommended, and are there different types or considerations for them?

Frost-proof faucets are highly recommended because they prevent water from freezing and bursting the pipe inside your wall during cold weather, saving you from costly repairs. They come in various lengths, so measure the thickness of your exterior wall to ensure you select one that extends far enough into your house for proper function and drainage.

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Once the winterization process is complete, you want to go back to your backflow preventer, and you want to turn the ball valves both before and after the backflow preventer on a 45 degree angle. Turning that amount of 45 is very important because it allows the water to escape from the ball valve. If it's all the way open or all the way closed, it'll cause water to be trapped behind the wall of the ball valve, so when the temperature gets cold, it'll freeze, expand, and blow out your ball valves, which will make for a very costly repair in the spring. Next, we need to go back to your basement because we need to remove the water that's between the point of connection and your backflow preventer. Look for a hose bin just downstream from that point of connection, get yourself a bucket, and open that valve up, and let the water trickle out until it stops and leave the valve open for the duration of the winter. Also, if your system's wise strainer is located outside, be sure to remove the plug to prevent freeze damage. And the last thing we need to do is thread the cap or plug back on the winterization port. If you have an RPC backflow, then you should keep it indoors during the winter.

Auto-generated transcript. May contain errors.