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Prep the new faucet. — Measure and Purchase Replacement

Beginner6 hours

Part of project

How to Replace a Frost-Free Outdoor Spigot (Sillcock) · Step 3 of 11

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In this video

Prepare the new frost-proof faucet for installation. Measure the total length of the old faucet and transfer the measurement to the new faucet. Cut the new faucet pipe to length. Apply flux to the inside and outside of the pipe ends that will be soldered. Open the handle of the new faucet before soldering. Solder the faucet inlet to the new pipe.

Goal: Prepare the new faucet for installation.

Used in this video

  • Tubing cutter (Tool Type: Tubing cutter, Power Source: Manual, Material Compatibility: Copper, Size/Capacity: Small, Durability: Medium, Cost: Low, Special Features: Rotating cutting wheel) — Cutting pipe to length
  • Measuring tape (brand: Stanley, Tool Type: Measuring tools, Power Source: Manual, Size/Capacity: Medium, Durability: Medium, Cost: Low) — Measuring length
  • Reamer (Tool Type: Hand tools, Power Source: Manual, Material Compatibility: Copper, Size/Capacity: Small, Durability: Medium, Cost: Low) — Removing burrs
  • Sand cloth (Tool Type: Hand tools, Power Source: Manual, Material Compatibility: Copper, Size/Capacity: Small, Durability: Low, Cost: Low) — Cleaning copper
  • Propane torch (Tool Type: Power tools, Power Source: Manual, Material Compatibility: Copper, Size/Capacity: Small, Durability: Medium, Cost: Medium) — Soldering
  • Wire brush (Tool Type: Hand tools, Power Source: Manual, Material Compatibility: Copper, Size/Capacity: Small, Durability: Medium, Cost: Low) — Cleaning fitting
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FAQs

Is soldering really required for this project, and how difficult is it for a beginner DIYer?

While this project is rated beginner, the soldering step can be intimidating. With practice on scrap copper pipe first, a propane torch, and proper flux, it's achievable. The 6-hour estimated time accounts for careful work and ensures a watertight, durable connection.

What are the most important safety precautions I need to take, especially with a propane torch?

Always have a fire extinguisher or a bucket of water nearby when soldering. Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes, use heat shields if working near combustible materials, and ensure good ventilation. Crucially, confirm the main water supply is completely off and the system drained before beginning any work.

What's the most common mistake that leads to leaks after replacing a sillcock, and how can I prevent it?

The most common mistake is an inadequate solder joint or insufficient exterior sealant. To prevent leaks, ensure your copper pipes are clean, the flux is evenly applied, and the joint is heated properly for the solder to flow smoothly. After installation, apply a generous bead of high-quality exterior sealant like GE Supreme Silicone around the new sillcock where it meets the house.

How do I know which type of replacement sillcock to buy (e.g., PEX, FIP, different lengths)?

You must measure the exact length of your existing sillcock from the exterior wall to its interior connection point. Then, inspect your interior plumbing to determine the connection type – whether it's copper pipe for soldering, PEX, or a threaded pipe (FIP). This ensures you purchase a compatible replacement like the Woodford 1/2 in. PEX or Everbilt 3/4 in. FIP models.

Transcript
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the new frost proof faucet. I've got the defective faucet out of the wall. It's still attached to the old pipe I just cut. I'll measure the total lengths of the faucet that includes the old cut pipe. I'll temporarily stub in a new piece of copper and transfer that measurement to the new pipe. This way the faucet will fit perfectly. Here I'm cutting the pipe at the line I just made. Now before I solder I set up a soldering station. I've got all the tools I'll need to solder. I've also got a piece of plywood that I'll work off of to protect my customers patio. Here I'm reaming the inside of the wall to remove any burrs and sharp edges. My tubing cutter has a built-in reamer in the handle. I'm cleaning the outside of the copper using sand cloth. This removes any dirt, oxidation or other contaminants which ensures an effective bond between the solder and the copper. I'll open up the faucet and insert my half-inch wire brush to prep the inside of the inlet. Notice the faucet is open now. More on that in a sec. Now it's time for flux. Notice I'm stirring my flux. This is an important step because flux can separate. Mixing helps evenly redistribute its particles which results in a stronger, more durable joint. Don't forget to apply flux inside the faucet's inlet as well. By the way, it's crucial to open the faucet's handle before you solder. The heat produced when soldering will damage the faucet's bib washer. The bib washer is the little rubber washer at the end of the stem assembly. That rubber washer is what seals off the water flow when the faucet is closed. Excessive heat during soldering could damage the washer and leak. But opening the valve allows heat to escape so the washer doesn't get damaged. With the valve open, it's time to turn on the torch and start soldering. First, I like to heat up the end of the copper pipe. You'll want to heat everything up evenly. That's why I'm rotating the faucet. That way, the solder gets evenly distributed around the fitting. You'll see the flux boil and shortly after that, the boiling stops. That's a sign that the joint is probably ready for solder. Just apply the solder along the joint. The heat travels the solder right in. Now I'll let this cool and wipe it off with a towel.

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