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Prepare New Spigot for Installation — Measure and Purchase Replacement

Beginner6 hours

Part of project

How to Replace a Frost-Free Outdoor Spigot (Sillcock) · Step 3 of 11

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In this video

The expert prepares the new frost-proof sillcock for installation. He compares the old, short spigot with the new, longer one, noting the superior design. He decides to solder the new pipe directly rather than using a threaded adapter to ensure a slim profile for fitting through the existing hole. He measures and cuts the new copper pipe to the appropriate length with a tubing cutter. Next, he thoroughly cleans the end of the new pipe and the existing pipe in the basement using a wire brush to ensure a strong solder joint. Critically, he disassembles the new spigot to remove the stem, which contains a rubber washer that would be destroyed by the heat of soldering. Finally, he applies flux to the cleaned pipe ends.

Goal: Prepare the new frost-proof spigot for soldering

  • It is essential to remove the spigot's stem before soldering to prevent melting the rubber washer and gasket.

Used in this video

  • Frost-Proof Sillcock (brand: Prier, Material: Metal) — The replacement spigot being installed.
  • Tubing Cutter (brand: Rigid, Tool Type: Pipe Cutter) — Cutting the new copper pipe to the correct length.
  • Wire Pipe Brush (brand: N/A, Tool Type: Hand Tools) — Cleaning the inside and outside of the copper pipes to prepare them for soldering.
  • Pliers (brand: N/A, Tool Type: Pliers) — Disassembling the new spigot to remove the stem.
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FAQs

Is soldering really required for this project, and how difficult is it for a beginner DIYer?

While this project is rated beginner, the soldering step can be intimidating. With practice on scrap copper pipe first, a propane torch, and proper flux, it's achievable. The 6-hour estimated time accounts for careful work and ensures a watertight, durable connection.

What are the most important safety precautions I need to take, especially with a propane torch?

Always have a fire extinguisher or a bucket of water nearby when soldering. Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes, use heat shields if working near combustible materials, and ensure good ventilation. Crucially, confirm the main water supply is completely off and the system drained before beginning any work.

What's the most common mistake that leads to leaks after replacing a sillcock, and how can I prevent it?

The most common mistake is an inadequate solder joint or insufficient exterior sealant. To prevent leaks, ensure your copper pipes are clean, the flux is evenly applied, and the joint is heated properly for the solder to flow smoothly. After installation, apply a generous bead of high-quality exterior sealant like GE Supreme Silicone around the new sillcock where it meets the house.

How do I know which type of replacement sillcock to buy (e.g., PEX, FIP, different lengths)?

You must measure the exact length of your existing sillcock from the exterior wall to its interior connection point. Then, inspect your interior plumbing to determine the connection type – whether it's copper pipe for soldering, PEX, or a threaded pipe (FIP). This ensures you purchase a compatible replacement like the Woodford 1/2 in. PEX or Everbilt 3/4 in. FIP models.

Transcript
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There's got to pull it out from the outside. So look at this. Look how short this was. This thing was sitting probably in the sill, so it was pretty close to the outside. I actually could have frozen. Now compare that to the new piece right here. Look at this. The washer's way back in here and that's a lot safer. Now we need to make sure that the new work is the same length as the old, so I could tie on here with a thread of the adapter, put a little bit of Teflon tape on here, thread it on, but I'm worried about the thickness of this shoulder. This piece barely came through the hole in that big thick sill. So what I'm going to do is actually, because I can, you can solder right into the inside right here, just like this one is down here, and that'll keep it a lot thinner. And if we solder that on here, stick it back in. The last thing we'll have to do is to make this coupling connection in a place right and get at it. There's a rubber washer that's sitting right next to we're going to apply all that heat, so we need to remove the shank. That's a rubber washer and a gasket that would not like to get too hot. Okay. Time to solder.

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